Your cart is empty
Looks like you haven't added anything to your cart yet
- Are you printing with high temperature filaments ?
- Introducing the Full metal hot-end upgrade that replace the regular Nozzle , PTFE tube and rod .
- Made by Micro Swiss , The all metal hotend upgrade for MK10 style extruders. This upgrade includes a modified thermal barrier tube and modified nozzle. Thermal barrier tube is made from two different materials. The lower thermal break is made from stainless steel, and the colder upper part is made from aluminum.
- Stainless steel was used for thermal break because it offers low thermal conductivity, and aluminum was used for the upper portion because it has a lot better thermal conductivity, to carry away any heat from the filament. All metal hotend will let you print at much higher temperature then possible with original PTFE lined one.Another benefit of an all metal hotend design is more consistent melt chamber control. During slow extrusion rate, in PTFE lined hotend, transition zone from solid to molten plastic tends to creep upward creating more stringy prints. With all metal design a transition zone is always constant, being located right at the heat break. With fast extrusion rate, PTFE tube doesn't have enough thermal conductivity to properly melt all the plastic coming out. On MK10 extruders that limitation happens around 60 mm/s, depending on nozzle size. All metal hotend solves this problem, plastic is surrounded by thermally conductive nozzle throughout its length. Kit includes 1 nozzle and 1 thermal tube and one thermal conductivity grease.
- Fits
- Wanhao i3 Only
MK10 All Metal Hotend Kit installation instructions
Tools needed:
-
Adjustable wrench (1 inch)
-
Cutters
-
Needle nose pliers
-
9mm wrench
-
2.5mm hex wrench
-
2mm hex wrench
-
Sharpie/marker
-
Round file
-
Thermal Compound (included in kit)
1 . Preheat the hot end
2. Hold the heater block with adjustable wrench and remove the nozzle using 9mm wrench. Be careful where you are clamping with adjustable wrench, dont damage the heating element or thermocouple.
3. Remove PTFE tube using needle nose pliers. Repeat step 2 and 3 for both extruders.
4. Unplug motor cables, both left and right.
5.Remove the screws holding filament tube bracket. Remove filament tube bracket.
6. Unscrew the screws holding extruder cooling fan.
7. Remove exruder motor assembly.
8. Repeat step 6 and 7 for the other extruder.
9. Take apart and set aside all the hardware holding fan to heatsink.
10. Repeat step 9 for the other extruder
11. Remove the cooling bar assembly from the carriage. There are 2 screws at the buttom of the carriage holding the cooling bar. Remove them using 2.5mm hex wrench.
12. Set the whole cooling bar assembly on cardboard or other platform and set it on top of the printer like shown in the picture.
13. loosen set screw locating on the back of the cooling bar. The set screw clamps and holds in place thermal barrier tube.
14. Repeat step 13 for the other extruder. Before removing thermal tube, somehow mark which heating block goes where. In our case we marked it with a marker on cooling bar and tape on the heater block. If you use marker for the heater block, don't forget to wipe it off before heating it.
15. Remove both thermal tubes from the cooling bar. This part can be easy or difficult depending on how hard those set screws holding the thermal tube where tight at the factory. In our case they were stock really hard there. We had to really pound on them to get them out.
16. After taking both thermal tubes out, Clean both bores with some sandpaper. If you have round file, file a groove on the set screw side. This groove will let you easily slide the new thermal barrier tube in a future. Make sure you don't file on a wrong side, the other side is important for heat transfer.
17. Unscrew and remove thermal tube from left and right heater block.
18. Screw in the new included nozzle all the way until it buttoms out.
18. Then back off about 1/2 of the turn. You want about 1/2 turn left until it buttoms out.
19. Do the same for the other nozzle.
18. Screw in new thermal barrier tube until it mates with a nozzle. Don't use any wrenches just tighten using finger pressure.
19. Do the same for both extruders.
20. Test fit both thermal barrier tubes if they go into cooling bar smoothly. If any of them stick, polish the bore with a sandpaper.
21. Put some thermal compound on the aluminum portion of thermal barrier tube. Then evenly spread it all around the tube. Do the same for both extruders.
22. Install both thermal barrier tubes into the cooling bar. Don't tighten the set screws yet.
- Choosing a selection results in a full page refresh.